Photo: (Left to right) Desiree Abeita and Rico Newman dressed in Piscataway Conoy cloth regalia.


Prior to the arrival of Europeans, Piscataway clothing was made primarily of animal hides. With the introduction of trade items, such as cloth, which was lighter and easier to work with, styles began to evolve as Native women incorporated these new exotic items into their families’ wardrobes. Traditional clothing styles were also influenced by ancient cultural ties to the Delaware Tribe, and, during the colonial era, political ties to the Iroquois Confederacy.

During the 18th Century there was much social and political upheaval in what is now the eastern United States. Because of colonial settlements, territorial disputes, wars, such as the “French and Indian War”, the Piscataway found themselves on the move. Out of necessity, a political alliance was created with the Iroquois, and as members of their “Covenant Chain” the Piscataway relied on them for protection from the onslaught and loss of territory. It was also during this time period that they became known as the “Conoy”. This name is derived from the Iroquoian designation for their tribe. All of these factors served to influence the present day cloth style of the “Piscataway Conoy”.

Men's Cloth Regalia

Pre-contact, an eastern man’s basic everyday outfit usually consisted of tanned hide breechclout, leggings, moccasins, and a robe for winter. With the advent of materials from European trade, the typical male attire went through a transformation. A trade shirt and wool blanket, along with other accoutrements, was added to his wardrobe. Although the trade shirt has become a standard part of his outfit, on occasion a man may opt to forego his trade shirt for the purpose of participating in a “Warriors’ Dance”. Breechclouts are now made from wool stroud, and leggings are also predominately made from wool. Occasionally, hide leggings are still worn. (Wool replaced hide except when performing activities which needed sturdier clothing such as hunting and war).

When decorated and worn properly, the Piscataway Conoy men’s cloth regalia gives the wearer a very regal appearance. Long ago, it was noted that during special and/or ceremonial occasions, eastern Native men would spend an entire day "dressing”. That is, preparing themselves and their clothing, for the special event. Each man would go all out to make his outfit as fancy and extravagant as possible. Trade shirts were plain or ruffled style, wool breechclouts, leggings and blankets were all decorated with silk ribbons, beadwork and silver broaches. Moccasins were decorated with beads, cones and sometimes wool flaps. To complement their outfits, headdresses, gorgets, necklaces, neck knives, earrings, nose rings, arm and wrist bands, bandolier bags/shot pouches, sashes, garters, etc. were worn. In today’s world, the only opportunities Piscataway Conoy men have to wear their tribal regalia is on such special occasions. Therefore, they are greatly encouraged to use these times to continue the eastern tradition of “dressing”, always putting their best into the preparation and appearance of their regalia.

There are five basic elements to the man’s ensemble, excluding accessories: (1) Headdress/Willawund – Three designs are: (a) A skull cap made of felt or hide divided into four sections with each section decorated in traditional beadwork - usually floral patterns (Piscataway patterns are outlined with white seed beads), (b) an eastern (not western) style circular roach worn on the top back of the head, or (c) Long turkey feathers encircling the head pointing skyward, usually worn by headmen; (2) Trade Shirt – Plain or ruffled after the styles worn during the colonial era with finger woven sash tied around the waist. Fabric colors range from white to solids to prints; (3) Breechclout – Wool (in traditional colors: black, navy, red, forest/hunter green or browns), trimmed with silk ribbons or braid, decorated with beadwork and silver; (4) Leggings – Wool (in traditional colors), or tanned hide (suede side out). Worn close fitting not loose reaching to mid-thigh with double side flaps, and garter below the knee. Decorated with silk ribbons and beadwork; (5) Moccasins – Center seam pucker toe. Men’s moccasin flaps are split at the heel. The flaps may be decorated with wool, silk ribbons, beads, silver, etc.

A Piscataway Conoy man’s headgear can be the most distinctive part of his regalia, if he chooses to wear the “Piscataway Conoy Covenant Chain Willawund”. This arrangement of feathers serves as a tribal identifier, and is attached at the top center of a felt or hide “skull cap/willawund”. This headdress is unique to the Tribe.



From left to right: Brass gorget; circular roach with feather; combination gorget with neck knife sheath; trade shirt with front ruffle; men's style center seam moccasins decorated with heel tabs and copper cones with yarn; black wool breechclout with silver broaches trimmed in red braid; finger woven garters; wool leggings trimmed with silk ribbons; and a finger woven sash.


Women's Cloth Regalia

In the 1700s, John Heckewelder observed that Native women went to great expense for fashion. During this period, elaborately beaded border designs, of white beads, began to emerge. Proud of their clothing traditions, the Piscataway Conoy try to preserve and maintain strict adherence to these traditional designs, materials, modesty, and a regal appearance. Women, and on occasion men, take on the responsibility of ensuring that tribal members, especially younger ones, do not stray from the Tribe’s traditional style offering their expertise to those in need of it.

Individuality is expressed through selection from five traditional wool colors, silk ribbon colors, barrettes with silk ribbon streamers, beadwork, silver, and other embellishments. There are four elements to the woman’s ensemble excluding her accessories: (1) Shirt – Reminiscent of colonial era trade shirts, they have either a cape or modified collar, of various widths, with fitted or ruffled cuffs. They are worn plain or decorated with silk ribbons and silver; (2) Skirt - Marital status determines the direction of the wrap (for married, overlaps toward right). Skirts are decorated, at a minimum, with silk ribbons and silver. The addition and complexity of beadwork depends on the individual. Occasionally, colored seed beads are used to fill in strategic spaces. For additional color, woodland floral designs may accompany a geometric pattern; (3) Leggings – They either match or compliment the skirt color, and are decorated, at the very least, with silk ribbons; and (4) Moccasins – Center seam style. Women’s moccasin flaps, unlike those for men, are not split at the heel. They may be decorated with wool, silk ribbons, beads and silver.

Finally, one of the more distinctive features of the Piscataway Conoy women’s cloth attire is the manner in which they wear their shirts neatly tucked inside the skirt with a woven sash tied about the waist. The sash may be tied at the side, but most women seem to prefer it tied at the back. This treatment makes their outfits easily distinguishable from the surrounding tribes, and those tribes to the north and south. (All of whom wear the blouse out over the skirt with or without a sash). The ladies’ appearance is unique enough in the eastern United States to be called the, “Piscataway Conoy Style”.



From left to right: White buckskin shoulder bag with wool flap decorated with beads, silver cones and broaches, and finger woven strap; small white buckskin pouch; barrette with silk ribbon trailer (reaches to back of knees); trade shirt with silk ribbons and silver broaches; ladies' style center seam moccasins with wool flaps decorated with silk ribbons, beads and silver cones with yarn; single ladies' wool wrap skirt decorated with silk ribbons, beads and silver broaches; wool leggings decorated with silk ribbons, beads and silver broaches; and a finger woven sash.